Is your Ryobi 40V battery not charging? We have some good news for you: it is possible to fix many common Ryobi 40V battery problems yourself.
The Ryobi 40V ecosystem offers a fantastic combination of power and convenience for a huge range of yard tools, from mowers to leaf blowers. However, this convenience comes with a significant investment, as replacement batteries are certainly not cheap.
When a battery fails to charge, often signaled by the frustrating flashing red and green lights, the thought of buying an expensive replacement can be daunting. The good news is that many of these issues are diagnosable and repairable.
This guide moves beyond simple fixes to address the full spectrum of failures, from basic user errors to complex internal faults.
Let’s take a look at the most common Ryobi 40V battery problems and how to fix them.
Ryobi 40V Battery Diagnosis Wizard
Use our specially built wizard below to quickly diagnose your 40v battery problem. Continue reading the article for more in depth information.
Ryobi 40V Battery Wizard
Let’s find out why your battery isn’t charging. We’ll start with some essential pre-checks.
Essential Safety Warning
Li-ion batteries store massive energy and can trigger thermal runaway—a deadly chain reaction causing fires, toxic gases, and explosions.
Never attempt repairs if you see swelling, hear hissing, smell chemicals, feel excessive heat, or see smoke.
Critical triggers: Physical damage, short circuits, overcharging, extreme heat.
Required safety gear:
- Safety goggles
- chemical-resistant gloves
- well-ventilated workspace
- Class ABC/D fire extinguisher
- dry sand nearby.
Never use water on Li-ion fires.
If you can’t meet these conditions, buy a new battery instead.
Foundational Diagnostics: Is It the Battery, the Charger, or Something Else?
Before assuming a complicated internal fault, a careful check over can often identify a simpler issue. Many charging problems are caused by the charger, dirty contacts, or temperature…
Not the battery itself.
1. Systematic Charger and Terminal Inspection
The physical connection between the battery and charger is a common failure point.
- Inspect the Contacts: Examine the metal contact blades on both the battery and the charger. They should be clean, straight, and free of damage or corrosion.
- Cleaning Procedure: If the terminals are dirty, use a cotton swab lightly dampened with high-purity (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to wipe them clean. For light corrosion, you can gently use a small piece of fine-grit sandpaper (600 grit or higher) or a fiberglass scratch pen on the contacts, followed by another wipe with alcohol to remove any debris.
2. Is Your Battery Too Hot of Too Cold?
Li-ion batteries are very sensitive to temperature. The internal Battery Management System (BMS) will prevent charging if the battery is outside its safe operational window, which is generally between 32°F and 113°F (0°C to 45°C).
- Too Cold: Attempting to charge a battery below freezing can cause an irreversible process called “lithium plating,” which permanently reduces capacity and increases risk. If your battery has been in a cold garage, bring it inside and let it acclimate to room temperature for at least one to two hours before charging.
- Too Hot: Charging a battery immediately after heavy use (e.g., mowing the lawn on a summer day) accelerates chemical degradation and shortens its lifespan. Let a hot battery rest in a cool, shaded area for 30 to 60 minutes before placing it on the charger. Do not place a hot battery in a refrigerator or freezer, as this can cause condensation and internal moisture problems.
3. Faulty Ryobi Battery Charger
Testing if the charger itself is faulty can be tricky. Ryobi 40v chargers have sensors that prevent them from outputting voltage unless a battery is detected, so you can’t simply test the output with a multimeter.
First, try a simple power cycle. Unplug the charger from the wall, wait a full minute, and plug it back in. This can sometimes resolve temporary electronic glitches.
If that doesn’t work, the best way to test the charger is with a second battery or a second charger.
- Use Another Battery: Try charging a known-healthy 40V Ryobi battery. If it fails to charge and gives the same error, your charger is likely the problem. If the second battery charges correctly, your charger is fine, and the original battery is the issue.
- Try Another Charger: Plug your battery into a known-working Ryobi charger. If it still fails to charge, your battery is confirmed to be faulty. If it charges up properly, your original charger is the problem.

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Understanding the Ryobi Charger Light Codes
The LED lights on your charger are your primary diagnostic tool.
The “Testing” mode is especially important, it is not an error. It means the charger is actively conditioning a battery that is too hot, too cold, or too deeply discharged.
Be patient and allow the charger time to complete this process.
Red LED Status | Green LED Status | Orange LED Status | Charger Diagnosis | Detailed Explanation | Recommended User Action |
ON | OFF | OFF | Power On / Standby | The charger is plugged into an AC outlet and is ready. No battery is inserted. | Insert a 40V battery to begin charging. |
OFF | Flashing | OFF | Charging | The charger is in the primary charging phase. This is normal operation. | Allow the battery to charge until the green light becomes solid. |
OFF | SOLID | OFF | Charging Complete | The battery is fully charged and in maintenance mode. | Remove the battery from the charger for use or storage. |
Flashing | Flashing | OFF | Defective Battery | The charger has detected a critical fault like a short circuit or severe cell imbalance. | Attempt deep discharge recovery methods below. If unsuccessful, the battery may be permanently failed. |
OFF | OFF | Flashing/Solid | Testing – Hot Battery | The battery’s temperature is above the safe charging limit (approx. 113°F). | Remove the battery. Let it rest in a cool, shaded area for 30-60 minutes before retrying. |
OFF | OFF | Flashing/Solid | Testing – Cold Battery | The battery’s temperature is below the safe charging limit (approx. 32°F). | Remove the battery. Bring it indoors to warm to room temperature for 1-2 hours before retrying. |
OFF | OFF | Flashing/Solid | Testing – Deeply Discharged | The battery’s voltage is too low for normal charging. The charger is trying to revive it. | Leave the battery on the charger. If it doesn’t switch to “Charging” (flashing green) after 30-60 minutes, proceed to manual recovery. |
Ryobi a “Sleeping” Battery: Deep Discharge Recovery
The most common reason for the flashing red and green lights is a battery in “sleep mode.” This happens when a battery is over-discharged, and its voltage drops so low that the charger’s safety circuits refuse to recognize it. Our goal is to manually raise the battery’s voltage just enough for the charger to accept it again.
Method 1: The Patience Method (Micro-Charging)
This is the safest and simplest method, but it requires patience.
- Plug your charger into a power outlet.
- Insert the sleeping battery into the charger just long enough for the indicator light to appear (1-2 seconds).
- Immediately remove the battery before the red and green lights begin to flash.
- Wait a few seconds, and then repeat the process.
- Continue this cycle for up to 30 minutes. Each time, the charger delivers a tiny pre-charge current, slowly “walking” the battery’s voltage up until the charger recognizes it and begins a normal charge cycle.
Also Read: Ryobi Pressure Washer Troubleshooting
Method 2: The Peer Jump-Start
This method uses a healthy, charged Ryobi 40V battery to jump-start the sleeping one. It is faster but carries more risk if done incorrectly.
- You will need a healthy, fully charged Ryobi 40V battery and some insulated wire (speaker wire with insulated alligator clips is recommended).
- Identify the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on both batteries.
- CRITICAL STEP: Connect the positive (+) terminal of the healthy battery to the positive (+) terminal of the sleeping battery.
- CRITICAL STEP: Connect the negative (-) terminal of the healthy battery to the negative (-) terminal of the sleeping battery.
- DOUBLE-CHECK POLARITY. Reversing this connection will cause a dangerous short circuit.
- Leave the batteries connected for 10-15 minutes.
- Disconnect the wires and immediately place the revived battery on its charger.
Warning: Experts advise against boosting Li-ion batteries that have been deeply discharged for a long time (a week or more). Microscopic structures called dendrites can form inside, creating a latent short-circuit risk when current is reintroduced.
Use a DC Power Supply To Jump Start Your 40V Battery
This is the most precise and safest manual method, but it requires a lab-style variable DC power supply.
You will need:
- A DC power supply capable of outputting 40 volts DC
- Some wire – standard speaker wire or similar will do the job
- Set the power supply’s output voltage to 40V.
- CRITICAL SAFETY STEP: Set the power supply’s current limit to a very low value, like 200mA to 500mA (0.2A to 0.5A). This prevents a dangerous rush of current into the battery.
- With the power supply on, connect its leads to the battery terminals, ensuring correct polarity.
- Monitor the voltage on the power supply’s display as it slowly climbs.
- Once the battery voltage reaches about 34V to 36V, disconnect the power supply and place the battery on its standard Ryobi charger.
This method is essentially the same as using a second battery, but instead we use a DC power supply set at the same output voltage (40v)
Advanced Internal Repair (When External Fixes Fail)
If the above methods fail, the problem is likely internal. This process carries significantly higher risks, and the safety protocols outlined at the beginning of this article must be followed strictly.
Disassembly and BMS Reset
You will need a Torx Security screwdriver (size TR10 or T10H) and plastic pry tools.
- Remove the four (or more) Torx screws holding the case together. You may need to cut the Ryobi sticker along the seam of the case.
- Gently use plastic pry tools to separate the case halves, releasing the internal clips.
- Once open, you will see the battery cells and the “brain” of the battery—the Battery Management System (BMS) circuit board.
- Sometimes, the BMS can be reset by momentarily shorting two specific pins on the circuit board with a small piece of insulated wire. This can clear a “soft fault.” The correct pins vary by model.
Battery Model Number | Reset Pins to Short | Notes / Location Description |
OP40501, OP40401 | RST and GND | The pins are clearly labeled. RST is a single pin, and GND is a nearby ground pad. |
OP40602 | RESET and GND | The pins are located on a header on the board and are labeled. |
OP40404 | RES and GND | The reset pin is labeled RES. It should be shorted to a nearby ground (GND) pad. |
A Critical Warning: The “Un-resettable” Modern Battery
A major change in newer Ryobi batteries (roughly post-2021 models) has rendered the simple reset procedure obsolete.
When these more sophisticated BMS units detect a severe fault, they can log a permanent fault. To prevent unsafe repairs, the BMS locks itself down and may be programmed to deliberately drain the entire pack to zero volts, making revival impossible.
If you have a newer battery and the reset procedure fails, it has likely entered this permanent, unfixable state by design. Further attempts are unfortunately not possible.
Is The Battery Too Old?
Unfortunately, it could simply be that your Ryobi tool’s 40-volt lithium-ion battery is simply getting old.
Typically, a Ryobi battery or any 40-volt lithium-ion battery maintains its performance for two to three years, or approximately 300 to 500 charge cycles.
One charge cycle describes the timeline between completely charging the battery, utilizing it until it’s fully discharged, and then charging it up once more.
Once your Ryobi 40-volt battery reaches its third or fourth year, you may begin noticing performance issues.
This could mean the battery’s inability to retain enough charge or, in more serious cases, it might fail to recharge entirely. Should you encounter this situation, replacing the old battery pack with a new one is recommended.
You can purchase a new battery here.

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Proactive Care: How to Maximize Ryobi Battery Lifespan
The best way to fix a battery problem is to prevent it from happening in the first place.
- Implement a Cool-Down Period: One of the most damaging practices is to take a hot battery from a tool and place it directly on the charger. Always let it cool in the shade for at least 30-60 minutes first.
- Avoid Deep Discharges: Constantly running your battery until the tool dies puts maximum strain on the cell chemistry. It’s far better to swap to a fresh battery when you notice a drop in power or the gauge hits one bar.
- Smart Storage is Key (The 40% Rule): For any storage period longer than a few weeks (like over winter), store the battery at a 30% to 50% charge level. This usually corresponds to two lit bars on the fuel gauge. Storing a battery at 100% (especially in the heat) causes rapid capacity loss, while storing it at 0% risks it entering the problematic “sleep mode.”
- Climate Control: Store batteries in a cool, dry place, ideally between 50°F and 77°F (10°C and 25°C). Avoid unheated garages in winter and hot sheds in summer.
- Remove When Fully Charged: While chargers have protections, it’s best practice to remove the battery once it’s full to avoid minor heat buildup and stress on the cells.
Buying a Replacement 40V Battery
When a battery is truly beyond repair, you’ll need a new one.
- The Aftermarket Gamble: The low prices of third-party batteries on sites like Amazon can be tempting, but it’s a market filled with risk. Many use low-grade cells that can’t handle the power demands of a tool, have fake capacity ratings, and may lack critical safety features, creating a serious fire risk. It is strongly recommended to buy genuine OEM Ryobi batteries or those from highly reputable aftermarket brands.
- Market Comparison:
- Ryobi: Offers the best versatility with over 85 tools in the 40V line, making it ideal for homeowners who want one battery system for everything.
- DeWalt: A professional-grade brand built for job site durability. Their FlexVolt batteries are backward-compatible with their 20V MAX tools, offering great value for existing DeWalt users.
- EGO: A specialist in high-performance outdoor power equipment. Often the leader in power and runtime for lawn tools, but their system isn’t as broad as Ryobi’s.
You can purchase genuine Ryobi batteries and chargers from online retailers like Amazon or locally at Ryobi dealers.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a Ryobi cordless tool battery be repaired?
Yes, you can repair a Ryobi cordless battery. But, it might take too much time and effort.
Opening up the batteries can be difficult; depending on what part is faulty, it may be quite expensive to fix.
Remember that batteries can be dangerous, so it’s best to get a qualified technician to check the battery for you.
Is it OK to leave a Ryobi Lithium-Ion Battery On The Charger?
No, you should charge the battery after use until it is full, then remove it from the charger and store it in an area that doesn’t get too hot or cold.
The ideal battery storage temperature is around 59℉, but standard room temperature is usually fine.
I tried the “charging by increments” method on my 40 v battery as it was reading as defective and flashing between been and yellow, and it worked. I was quite motivated as I didn’t want to spend $240 for a new battery. It probably took 15 mins and it started charging. Thank you
Thats great news Jane, thanks for the feedback!
The micro charging worked. Thanks for saving me on buying a new battery. A little hack. I plugged it into an outlet with a wall switch so all I did was flip a switch instead of unplugging it again and again. Thanks again
I bet you haven’t heard this problem before3ah. I have a RYOBI Weed eater and the battery is broken on the back. Also, while trying to purchase a new battery, I can’t find a 40V 3ah. Does it matter if I purchase a 4ah?
As long as it has the same connections it will be fine, it will just be a little bulkier.
my problem is the battery will charge for a few minutes then the SOLID YELLOW (testing) light comes on and stays on. pushing the self test button on the battery flashes green for about 1 sec then goes dark. the battery will not operate anything.
Is the battery hot? Is the weather hot? I think that’s a heat error.
Salutations Mr. Green,
My ryobi 40v battery was working fine till it died. After leaving it on charger over night the charger light was green but the battery was dead. I charged my other battery and the charger worked fine. Every time I put the non working battery in the charger the light automatically went to green with the battery being dead. Is all hope lost with this battery? I’m hoping the jump start method from the working battery to dead battery will do the trick. If it doesn’t work, are there any other tricks to try?
Respectfully,
Frank
I want to caution anyone with a sleep mode Ryobi battery to immediately contact them and get them to take their battery back. We had two batteries stop charging after one use this summer and Ryobi was great about replacing them but didn’t want the two defective batteries back. We tucked them aside thinking we could try some of the tips on getting them out of sleep mode, but none worked, so we figured we’d recycle them when we had time as battery recycling in our area requires an appointment. A few days ago, I came into a room to find our storage room filled with smoke. The battery was actively spewing smoke into the room and had a melted area in the casing. The fire department came out and took care of it, but I’m still working to get the melted plastic smell out of the items that were in the storage area. I’m trying to get Ryobi to deal with this, but they directed me to another company and they haven’t responded yet.
Ok, here’s what I tried. I tried the good battery to sleeping battery mode. I left them connected for about 40 minutes. Tested the voltage on the sleeping battery and it was reading over 40 volts. So I put it on the charger and it goes red and green. I removed and put the volt meter to it and it read less than 1 volt. So then I tried the insert remove method for about 1 or 2 minutes and tested voltage again. It read a little over 20 volts. I thought alright. So I inserted on battery charger and left it in and it went to red and green again. Tested voltage and it was a little over 1 volt. So I don’t know why it takes in a the voltage but discharges it really quick. Any ideas?
I used fix option #1 and it took 57 times of plugging and unplugging until it started charging but as I sit here right now it is flashing green!
In my situation, the mower quit unexpectedly so I thought the battery was hot. Turns out that had probably not charged it from the last use and it was completely exhausted and I let it sit that way for a few days.
I applied fix 1 by leaving the charger body attached to the battery and pulling the plug in and out. The light very briefly turned orange (testing) at first then instantly switched to red (power on). I left it there for just a second and unplugged it. I repeated that process 20 times and then decided to give it a go. It still flashed red and green (defective). I stuck with it and on the 37th time of the second set I noticed that the light turned green (ready) as I was pulling the plug out of the charger body. I plugged it back in and it went straight to flashing green (charging).
Thanks for the article, this just saved me a hassle and a bunch of money!
Battery not charging. Should lights on charger flash red and green with no battery in it? Does the same thing with battery in charger. 40 volt lawn mower about 2 years old.
Hi,
I plug in my 40V 6ah battery and it turns red, then flashes green and red. Any thoughts on how to help?
I wanted to add to my original comment. I just tested the voltage. From + to – the voltage only reads 13V but from + to T1 it reads 40V. Maybe this will help.
Fantastic. Thanks Aaron. The incremental plugging in and removal worked. The charger finally recognized the battery after 45 seconds of doing this procedure.
Hello Aaron, we have a Ryobi brushless 36V blower/vac, 2014 model. For the last 18 months, every time I use the blower, the battery connection points seem to overheat to the point where the plastic at the battery connection points is melting on both sides – the battery side and the connection point at insert on the blower. Battery charges no problems whatsoever.
That does seem like something is wrong – I’m guessing it’s probably the battery itself. I would recommend you replace it asap!
Thanks for this. I had a knock-off battery that stopped accepting a charge on the charger. Zero voltage registering on the multimeter. 2 green lights flashing when I pressed the button on the battery, and the charger was flashing red/green. I first tried the reset jumper, but, I don’t think the battery had enough left to manage it. I boosted it for about 10 minutes with another 40V battery. That stopped the flashing, but, the charger still wouldn’t charge. I finally went to the plug/unplug method, until I could see I had charged enough to get to the point that the third battery light was lit. When I plugged it in and left, it just kept charging – no more red/green flashing, and my battery seems to be behaving better.
I have a 40 v, 2.6 amp battery that is fully charged but now either won’t stay in the trimmer (simply falls out when the trimmer is upright), or if it locks in the trimmer, it is very hard to get out. In other words, the latching mechanism isn’t working. What can I do?
It sounds like either the mechanism on the trimmer or the battery needs a clean!
Hey Aaron, thanks so much for sharing your expertise. My Ryobi battery was flashing red/green and I tried tip 3. After about 5 or 6 insertions it started charging away happily. Thanks so much 🙂
Awesome suggestions. Option 3, after about 15 minutes of plugging/unplugging worked for me.
Thanks for the help.
My battery stopped working whilst I was using the sander. No lights come on when I press the button. Solid red light remains on when charging. Sometimes if I bash the battery a little it works again and shows full green lights. But after a few seconds in the sander (or any tool that shakes) it stops working again. Bought a new battery which worked fine for a while but exact same thing has happened now. Any idea of a fix? Thanks so much.
Thanks. Option 1 worked for me!
I have a OP4026 battery, out of warranty, that will give flashing red/green lights on the charger. None of the standard options will allow it to charge. I have seen on Youtube some fixes to reset the controller board.
Does the RST(reset) terminal need to be grounded momentarily or touched to 3.3V momentarily to make it reset?